5 Pickleball Practice Drills That Work No Matter Your Partner’s Skill Level
Finding a practice partner at your exact skill level is one of those things that sounds straightforward until you actually try to do it consistently. Most players show up to the court, their usual partner cancels or bails last minute, and suddenly they’re left hitting with someone two full levels below them wondering whether the session is even worth running. It absolutely is. You just need to build the session around the right drills.
These five drills come from Troy Akin on YouTube, and they were built specifically for this situation — training with a weaker partner while still preparing for competitive or tournament-level play. What makes them work is that each drill gives both players a real job to do regardless of the skill gap. Nobody is standing around feeding balls while the other person does all the learning.
Why Drilling With a Weaker Partner Actually Makes You Better
The assumption most players carry is that drilling with someone less skilled slows your development down. That assumption is wrong, and it’s costing players good practice time. The gap between partners, when you structure drills around it deliberately, creates a specific training advantage that you simply cannot replicate by drilling with someone at your exact level.
The weaker player gets to work on fundamentals in a controlled environment. The stronger player gets to work on consistency, pressure management, and handling unfamiliar pace without the chaos of a real match. Both players leave the court better than they arrived. The key word is intentionally. If you just go out and rally without structure, yes, a skill gap makes things messy. But the moment you give each player a defined role, that gap becomes a tool.
If you want to dig into pickleball skill levels and where you actually stand, that context helps you understand what each player should realistically be working on in any given drill.
Drill 1: 100 Dinks in a Row
This drill exposes something fast. Most players believe their dink consistency is solid until they actually try to string together 100 cross-court dinks in a row without a miss. The goal is not to outmaneuver your partner or win the rally. The goal is to survive it together, both players working toward the same number.
Both players stand at the kitchen line and dink cross-court. The technical focus is low net clearance. You want the ball barely skimming over the tape, not floating up where it becomes an easy attack. If your partner’s ball is sitting up high, that is the rep you use to focus on what a proper dink feels like versus what a dangerous one looks like from the other side of the net.
What makes this drill genuinely valuable beyond the obvious consistency work is what happens as the count climbs. Around 90 dinks, something shifts. There is no reliable way to manufacture match nerves in practice, but the feeling of being one mistake away from resetting the count at 98 reps is about as close as you will get outside of an actual tournament. That pressure is real, and learning to execute technically sound shots inside that pressure is exactly what separates players who dink well in warmup from players who dink well when it matters.
Building real dink consistency at the 100-rep level means you will win points at every skill level simply by staying in the rally longer than your opponent wants to. That is not a small thing. Dinking is where most rec and intermediate matches are actually decided, and most players never train it under any real pressure at all.
Drill 2: The Mandatory Reset Drill
This drill is designed to make you uncomfortable, and that discomfort is the whole point. The setup is simple: your partner has full permission to attack any ball at any time. You are not allowed to counter-attack. Every ball you receive must be reset softly into the kitchen, no exceptions, no counters.
The technical keys are a loose wrist, a wide and low stance, and a soft paddle face that absorbs pace rather than redirecting it. The ball should drop into the kitchen. It should not pop back hard. If you are pushing the ball or chopping at it, you are going to pop it up and that becomes a conversation about why your reset keeps failing under pressure.
What you are building here is a reliable reset shot that holds up when a better player attacks you in a real match. If you can handle your practice partner’s speed-ups consistently in a controlled drill setting, you have that shot available when it actually counts. Countering a kitchen speed-up is one of the highest-leverage skills in the modern game, and most players only ever work on it reactively during live play where the chaos makes learning difficult.
The weaker player is not just standing there feeding balls either. In this drill, the attacking player is practicing speed-ups from the kitchen line. That is a real offensive skill they need. And the lesson that gets reinforced for them is critical: the initial speed-up rarely wins the point outright. The second and third ball after the first attack is where points actually get finished. Giving the weaker player an offensive role keeps them engaged and builds a shot that most 3.5 players never develop with any intentionality. Understanding how pros approach speed-ups shows that the prep before the swing matters just as much as the swing itself.
Drill 3: Fifth Shot and Seventh Shot Recovery
Everyone drills the third shot drop. Almost nobody drills what happens when that drop is slightly too high and gets hammered back. This drill puts the stronger player in a defensive hole from the very first ball and forces them to work through it.
The stronger player feeds their partner a soft forehand that sits up slightly. The weaker player attacks it immediately, putting the feeder on defense from ball one. The stronger player’s job from there is to reset that attack, work back to neutral, and eventually earn their way back to the kitchen line.
You are practicing fifth shots, seventh shots, and ninth shots — the transitional balls that most players in the 4.0 to 5.0 range completely ignore in drilling. Knowing when to flip from defense back to offense, and executing that flip cleanly, is one of the clearest separators between a 4.0 and a 4.5 player. If you can only reset but never recognize when to go back on offense, you will spend entire matches stuck in a defensive loop waiting for a ball that never comes.
Understanding the pickleball transition zone — when to play safe versus when to attack — is the tactical backbone of this drill. The mechanics are only half the challenge. The other half is reading the right moment to shift gears.
Drill 4: Serve, Return, Third Shot Drive Down the Middle
Middle solves the riddle. That phrase gets repeated in pickleball coaching circles because it keeps proving itself true at every level. This drill isolates the third shot drive as a low-net-clearance weapon aimed at the center seam, and it gives both players meaningful work to do from the very first ball.
The stronger player serves. The weaker player returns with a specific focus on depth. The stronger player drives that third ball hard and low down the center. After three shots, both players reset and run it again. The target for the drive is the net tape, not your opponent’s body. You are trying to keep that ball low through the highest point of the net, which forces you into better mechanics than if you were aiming at a body target.
It does not matter whether the return comes back to the backhand or forehand side. The answer is always the same: drive it low down the middle. This consistency of decision-making is exactly what the drill is building. In match play, hesitation on the third shot is often what turns a manageable situation into an error. Drilling one clear answer builds the automatic decision-making that removes that hesitation.
For the weaker player, the focus is return quality and depth. Shallow returns are one of the most punishing habits at every level below 4.5, and it is a habit most players have never been directly trained to fix. When your return lands short, you hand the serving team a comfortable third shot from a controlled position. When you push that return deep, you force them to drive or drop from behind the baseline under real pressure. Return targets turn what most players treat as a neutral shot into an offensive setup, and that shift in mindset alone will change how many points you win from the return position.
Drill 5: Drop Feed Speed-Up Hands Battle
This is the most physically demanding drill on the list and also the most fun. The weaker player stands at the kitchen line, drops a ball, and rips it as hard as they can at the stronger player. No spin requirements, no specific target. Just maximum pace. The stronger player counters every ball back hot with controlled aggression.
For the stronger player, this drill builds hand speed, sharpens ready position, and develops the ability to handle pace that is faster than what they typically see in match play. When you absorb full-swing attacks in practice consistently, a normal speed-up in a real match slows down visually. The ball that used to feel like it was on top of you before you could react suddenly has more time attached to it. That is a real and measurable training adaptation.
For the weaker player, the drill builds confidence attacking with pace and teaches them to stay in position for the second ball after the counter comes back. Hitting a proper speed-up is not just about swinging hard. Kitchen line attacks at the pro level are calculated sequences, not wild swings. You rarely win on the first speed-up. You win on the second or third ball after your opponent has been moved or flustered. Learning that sequence in a controlled drill environment is far more efficient than trying to pick it up through trial and error in live games.
Winning the hands battle consistently is one of the fastest ways to move up in skill level, and this drill gives both players a legitimate path to developing it regardless of where they currently stand.
For Players Who Are New to All of This — Here Is What You Need to Know
Pickleball is a paddle sport played on a smaller court than tennis, and a huge part of the game happens right at the net in what is called the kitchen zone. Most points at the recreational level are won and lost based on three things: whether you can keep a soft exchange going without making a mistake (dinking), whether you can defend a hard shot hit at you from close range (resetting), and whether you can hit a low, fast ball into the middle of the court when you have a chance to attack (driving).
These five drills each train one or more of those skills in a structured way. The 100 dink challenge teaches patience and precision. The reset drill teaches you to absorb a hard shot instead of panicking. The recovery drill teaches you what to do after a bad ball. The serve and drive drill teaches you to take advantage of a short return. The hands battle drill teaches you to react quickly when balls are coming at you fast.
None of these require you to be an advanced player to start. In fact, several of them are specifically designed so that the less experienced player has a clear, achievable job to do that actually helps them improve. The whole point is that both people on the court get better, not just the stronger one.
How to Structure a Full Practice Session With These Drills
Running all five drills back to back is a real workout. Here is a clean structure that keeps both players focused and minimizes idle time:
- Start with the 100 dink challenge. Warm up the hands and get both players dialed in on net clearance before anything else happens.
- Run the mandatory reset drill for 10 minutes. Switch roles halfway through so both players get time attacking and resetting.
- Move to the fifth shot recovery drill for 10 minutes. Alternate who gets put on defense first so the roles stay fair.
- Run the serve, return, and third shot drive for 10 minutes. Keep the focus on return depth from the weaker player and low net clearance on the drive from the stronger one.
- Close with the drop feed speed-up hands battle. Run it until both players are visibly tired. This is not the drill to end early.
This format runs about 45 to 50 minutes with almost no idle time. If you are still weighing how much drilling to do versus live play, it is worth knowing that a top pro has done the math on drill versus play ratios, and the answer might be different from what most recreational players assume.
What the Weaker Player Should Focus on Across All Five Drills
If you are the less experienced player in any of these sessions, there are three specific things worth tracking across every drill you run. These three habits will move you forward faster than anything else you could focus on.
First, net clearance on dinks. Balls that float high get attacked. Keeping your dink low is not just about being careful — it is about removing your opponent’s offensive options entirely. Second, return depth. Short returns make life easy for the server and give them a comfortable third shot. Every time you push that return back deep, you are creating pressure before the point even develops. Third, second-ball awareness during speed-ups. The first attack is just the opening move. Staying ready for what comes back instead of watching where your first ball went is the difference between a productive exchange and giving up a free counter.
These three habits are the fastest path from 3.5 to 4.0 that exists. And for the stronger player, breaking through the 4.0 ceiling requires exactly the kind of pressure-based consistency work that these drills create. The skill gap between partners stops being a problem the moment you build the right structure around it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I really improve by drilling with someone two levels below me?
Yes, and the reset drill and hands battle prove it most clearly. The weaker player applies controlled pressure in a structured setting, which lets the stronger player build specific skills like resets, counters, and pace absorption without the chaos of live match play clouding the learning process.
How many dinks should a 3.5 player aim for before attempting 100?
Start with 20 in a row and build from there. Once you can hit 20 consistently with low net clearance, push to 40, then 60. The jump from 60 to 100 is where the real pressure management



